Spain - Barcelona




   Barcelona, the second largest city in Spain has ancient roots that are evident still today.  Originally a Roman city, many Roman ruins are open as tourist attractions highlighting the city's rich heritage.  Due to the size of Barcelona, I found it necessary to employ the metro system in order to get around from one area of interest to the next.  Once you are in the area you desire, it is easy to travel by foot, however.     



One of the artists along La Rambla



La Rambla, the city's main congestive area is a cacophony of sights and sounds.  Down the middle of this busy tree-lined street, a pedestrian median is filled with vendors where one could acquire anything from a live chicken, to fresh cut flowers, or a live portrait!  This market-like venue is hugged by modern shops and cafes lining the parallel streets where one could purchase weekly groceries, or the newest pair of Nike running shoes!   La Rambla runs south all the way down to the pier at Placa del Portal de la Pau where a monument of Christopher Columbus was erected in 1881(for a fee, one can climb the monument to enjoy panoramic views of Barcelona and the Mediterranean Sea).  As lovely as it is however, it's also one of the main targeted areas of pickpockets, so ladies, hold onto your purses (or don't carry one at all), and gents, shift your wallet to your front pocket!!   

La Boqueria

Tucked off to the side between the shops on La Rambla is a gem - the Mercat san Joseph or as the locals call it La Boqueria.  At the market, it's worth using  your patience to brave the crowds in order to purchase fresh food ranging from candy to fish (the claustrophobic atmosphere is testament to its popularity).  Note- in the market, it is not permitted that the customers touch anything, you must tell your order to the vendor (don't find out the hard way - it's not fun being yelled at in Spanish!).  Also found off of La Rambla is the Placa Reial - a beautiful, popular square filled with palm trees, a fountain, and surrounded on the perimeter by a large number  of restaurants, bars and nightclubs.  



Placa Reial



Part of the Roman Walls of Placa del Rei



 Barcelona's architecture varies from ancient, Medieval, ornate, to even playful!   One of the most popular sites of interest from ancient Barcelona is found in the Gothic section of the city (this was definetely my favourite neighbourhood to roam around in).  The Placa del Rei is a medieval square, rumoured to have been the location where Columbus was received following his return from discovering the Americas!  The square is flanked by gothic buildings including a section of the former Royal Palace, Torre Mirador del Rei Martí (the King's watchtower from the 16th century), as well as the 14th century Chapel of Santa Agatha.   Due to its Roman roots, Barcelona has a great number of Roman architectural interests.  Hidden beneath the Placa del Rei is the subterranean Museu d'Historia de la Ciutat (the ruins of ancient Barcelona when it was still a Roman city, containing the remnants of residences, a chapel, winemaking and fabric dying facilities).  Navigating around the narrow, winding  medieval streets in the vicinity of the Placa del Rei is delightful and other worldly.  Here you will find many delectable delights in the form of restaurants, bakeries, wine shops, etc.   It was difficult not to indulge in the sweets offered by the bakeries with their scents wafting through the open doorways. 


Barcelona's many cathedrals are examples of the ornate and gothic architecture that were a popular aspect of the city's past.  Popular examples include the gothic La Catedral (found in the old section of town),  and Santa Maria Del Mar (built in the 14th century and made popular by its mention in the book "The Cathedral of the Sea").  The oldest church in the city, Sant Pau de del Camp is an architectural marvel given that a building of its age (it dates from the 9th century), is still standing as one of the most well preserved Roman buildings of the city!           




Facade of Casa Batllo

 


The rooftop of Casa Batllo



One of Spain (and definitely Barcelona's), most famous architects Antoni Gaudi is renowned for his playful architectural delights.  Some of the locations Gaudi has brought to notoriety are the Casa Batllo (a fun-house like residential property commissioned in the early 1900's), Casa Calvet (formerly a commercial textile property and residence), and the outdoor Parc Guell (where lunches are eaten atop whimsical mosaic creations).  Barcelona's most famous cathedral Sagrada Familia, was one of Antoni Gaudi's unfinished creations, and also his resting place.  Prior to his death, he had only completed the Nativity facade, one tower, the apse and the crypt.  Due to the nature of his design strategies, architects do not know what he intended the completed cathedral to look like, so all construction that has taken place since Gaudi's death have been speculations.   



The Funicular to the top of Montjuic



A trip to the top of Montjuic (Barcelona's flat topped hill overlooking the harbour), should be on your list of things to do!   It is host to a variety of attractions including the Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya (which is held inside the Palau Nacional, built for the 1929 World's Fair) highlighted with majestic fountains, Poble Espanyol (a Spanish village built for the 1929 World's Fair as an example of Spanish architecture), remnants of the Olympics (the pool, tower, and stadium), a funicular and at the summit, the fortress Castell de Montjuic.  The top of the hill provides an excellent vantage point with panoramic views of the city and sea below.



Castell de Montjuic


 

Barceloneta Beach



Last but not least, due to its location on the Mediterranean Sea, tourists of Barcelona are offered some solace from the hustle and bustle of the city, by a trip (by foot or metro), down to the beach.  Barceloneta offers a clean, public beach,  that is bespectacled with installations of art along its long stretching promenade.  Here you can see palm trees swaying in the wind, enjoy a meal at one of the many bars or restaurants, have a swim in the Mediterranean Sea, watch the windsurfers, or just relax and catch some rays! 

Spain - Madrid

Spanish Flag

My trip to Spain was my first trip ever, anywhere, alone, and it required that I travel to Europe stag!  You see, my best friend was living in Ireland at the time, and we were meeting up in Spain to spend the week together!  Although I was quite nervous leading up to the trip about not only flying trans-Atlantic alone, but also navigating through the airport to reach my connecting flight (which is always a nerve-racking task to begin with)!  Somehow, I managed to keep my hair on, and successfully arrived at my destination relatively unscathed.  This trip also saw my first (and so far only), time ever using hostels for accommodation – this of course was successful in its function of keeping the trip extremely cost effective)!   I found that Madrid had extremely convenient airport transfer trains from the airport to the downtown (although it required a little research to find this out, and to make the transfers work smoothly, it was well worth the leg work as it saved a great deal of transportation costs).

The city of Madrid was a charming mix of old world and new world.  With its historical Opera House, Royal Palace, fountains, modern towers, and pyramid (yes, a real Egyptian pyramid), it has the enchantment that Europe is famous for.  There are many amazing sights to see, activities to do, and culinary delights to keep you busy! 

<>  <> 

Palacio De Communicaciones at Dusk

Madrid is a great city to meander about, and enjoy lazily looking at the sights.  By doing so, you will wander into gorgeous plazas (e.g. Plaza Mayor- a famous site during the Inquisition, Plaza de Santa Ana - a lovely place to sit and eat at one of the many cafes, or Plaza de Oriente flanked by the Teatro Real - Madrid's opera house), undoubtedly find some great shops (Madrid is known for its shopping and fashion), and of course stumble upon many architecturally interesting buildings.  Madrid is a city that blends new with the old, and that is clearly evident by its architecture.  Take the central post office for example, or in Spanish, the Palacio De Comunicaciones.  A gorgeous ornate white stone building, with a grand fountain in the foreground, it is said to be one of the most photographed locations in Madrid, and possibly also one of the most iconic (it was one of my favourites)!  

One of the most intriguing buildings in Madrid is a relocated authentic Egyptian pyramid - the Temple of Debod.  Saved by UNESCO during the construction of the Great Dam of Aswan, the temple was donated to Spain in 1968, and moved from its former location on the Nile, to its present day spot in Madrid amid the Parque del Oeste near the Royal Palace.  For a fee, one can view the preserved hieroglyphics on the pyramid walls, or for free, just enjoy the tranquility of the pools in front of the temple. 

Temple of Debod

Almundena Cathedral at Night

When considering the interesting architecture of Madrid, one would be remiss to not include the many beautiful churches as some of the most stunning.  A few places of mention that are "must sees," in my opinion are: San Nicolas de los Servitas (oldest church in Madrid, whose bell tower dates back to the 12th century), Almundena Cathedral (a unique mix of old and new), San Francisco El Grande (which reputably is the largest domed cathedral in Madrid

The Royal Palace (Palacio Real), the official home to the royal family in Madrid is quite a sight to see both during the day light hours, and lit up by the after-dark spot-lights highlighting its architectural details.  The tree-lined ‘garden’  directly in front of the palace, however, makes  for a popular and tranquil picnic spot during the day!  Another lovely leisurely outdoor activity to do during the day, is to take in the Botanical Gardens with all of the beautiful seasonal blooms (the is especially wonderful if you are in Spain during a time when you have escaped the frigid grips of winter in North America)!  



Palacio Real Lit at Night





Tulips at the Real Jardin Botanico de Madrid



                                                                <> 

The Bear and the Strawberry Tree

A tourist can not go to Madrid, without finding themselves at one point or another in the Puerta del Sol, the city's "kilometre zero."  A famous place for the Spanish to celebrate their New Year's and a part of the former gates that once surrounded the city, it was historically, a meeting place of significance.  The Puerta del Sol is ornamented with New-York style billboards, the iconic Tio Pepe advertisement, its famous bear and strawberry tree statue and an iron casting of Charles III.  Historically, it was always heralded as a meeting place due to its central location and once was one of the gates of the city wall.  It is a great place to get your bearings, or head down into the metro through the space-age looking entrance! 

 Madrid is a city with a rich cultural heritage, and an arts scene that they can be proud of.  The Meseo Del Prado is the main national Spanish art museum, and holds the reputation of being one of the greatest art museums in the world.  One could spend hours enjoying the many collections of Spanish and European art.  If you delight in musical pursuits, you may choose to take in an Operatic production at the Teatro Real, Madrid's opera house - a building which holds an interesting ancestry, at one time being used as a gunpowder store, functioning as parliamentary chamber and during the Spanish Civil War even held the function of barracks!  After many years of transformation and reinvention, the Teatro Real is a gorgeous and unique building that will catch your eye.  Madrid also has its own thriving theatre district located on Gran Via, home to theatres that bring locals and tourists internationally popular stage shows that are said to rival Broadway!!  If you fancy a more traditional 'show', you may opt to dine at one for the many restaurants that offer live Flamenco shows - of course, you must also partake in the consumption of at least one glass of Sangria while you're there to feel totally local! 
<> 

Sangria

Edinburgh, Scotland!

Edinburgh Airport

Tailor Hall Hotel and the Three Sister's Pub on Cowgate

A portion of my background is Scottish (my great-grandmother came from Stevenson), so I knew that I would one day have to visit the country that makes up some of my ancestry.  When I, after keeping a close eye on flight deals,  found a round trip direct flight from Toronto to Edinburgh for $400, I grabbed opportunity by the horns, and once again found myself on a trans-Atlantic flight (the best kind of flight in my opinion!).  This time however, learning from my past mistake, I landed in day-light, and began my Scottish adventure soon after dropping my luggage in my hotel room.  A quick note on my accommodations - we stayed at the hotel attached to the Three Sisters Pub on Cowgate, which gave us a convenient location from which to set about town.  It is historically significant as it was built in 1621, and converted into a hotel in the late 1990's. 

Edinburgh Castle

                Edinburgh has a comforting, slower paced feel to it, which beckons you to wander about its hilly layout without an itinerary and simply experience each of the sights for what they are rather than rushing to the next.  The most prominent feature of the town is the impressive, grand Edinburgh Castle perched atop a cliff-like escarpment over-looking the town.  It offers a great vantage point from which you can see the acropolis on Calton Hill, the Salisbury Craigs, the Palace of Hollyroodhouse (the Queen's Scottish residence & recently the backdrop for Zara Phillip's wedding), the Princes Street gardens and monument, and on a clear day, the North Sea!  

The Royal Mile

Edinburgh Castle

St.Giles Cathedral

Palace of Hollyroodhouse

                 The Royal Mile (composed of Castlehill, High Street, and Canongate), is a treasure trove  of things to do, see, eat and purchase.   Starting at Edinburgh Castle and making your way down towards the Palace of Hollyroodhouse, you can find yourself watching looms fabricate wool  apparel, visit St.Giles Cathedral for a moment of reflection, spend some time perusing one of the many museums on the Royal Mile, or catching a meal in one of the many pubs and restaurants (World's End Pub does a delicious Fish and Chips, or dine on one of the Filling Station's economical but filling meals!  

A 'creepy' close at night

Due to the physical geography of Edinburgh, the city was composed of a number of 'closes' (narrow, straight, deep alleyways that are towered over by the imposing buildings built high on either side of them).  Many of the closes still exist today and are named for the families that resided there (e.g. Borthwick's Close), or for the products that one could acquire there (e.g. Fleshmarket Close) in days past.  Once such close has become synonymous with myth, legend and rumours of ghosts, murders and the plague - Mary King's Close.  Although this particular close was once closed to the public, it was re-opened in 2003 as a tourist attraction, where one is taken down for a tour of the dark depths of the close and regaled with the stories that have made it famous.  If you are brave enough, it might be an attraction you would enjoy (truth be told I spent a great deal of time with either my eyes closed, or my ears plugged thinking 'happy thoughts')!   If  you are even more bold, you may opt to take a toured ghost-walk about the city with one of the many tour groups that offer such late night jaunts. 

               

The Princes Street Gardens

Monument in Princes Street Gardens

 The "Old Town" (Royal Mile area), is separated from the "New Town", and accessed by crossing a number of bridges (The Mound, Waverly Bridge and North Bridge).  By crossing one of the bridges, you will find Waverly Station (which provides easy train transport to neighbouring cities, other parts of Scotland and England), the Princes Street gardens (with its famous Scott monument), and a great deal of shopping along Princes Street (Marks and Spencer, Gap, Princes Mall, etc.).   Interestingly, the valley that is now home to the Princes Street Gardens and Waverly Station was formerly a freshwater lake come open sewer (from all the 'waste' flowing down from the closes of "Old Town"), called the Nor Loch.  The Nor Loch was drained of its contents in the early 19th century - perhaps all those years of 'fertilizer' is what makes its greenery so lush?!  Calton Hill makes for a nice afternoon stroll, or perhaps even a picnic lunch after a morning of shopping, or browsing the art work in the National Gallery of Scotland. 

The National Gallery of Scotland

The Scottish Highlands in all their glory!

               Although I could have spent my entire trip meandering around Edinburgh, there were other ventures that found me on a bus, touring the Scottish Highlands, viewing reminders of some of the legends that brought Scotland to what it is today (e.g. the Well of Seven Heads).  Breathtaking views (of Ben Nevis),  and a moment of reverence was found at the Commando Memorial (erected in 1952 by the Queen Mother), which seemingly rose after driving in the 'middle of nowhere'.    Last but not least on my itinerary was my venture out on a boat gliding across the murky waters of Loch Ness (unfortunately it was not a day that Nessie felt like revealing herself)!   From the boat, we saw a different viewpoint of the remains of Urquhart Castle (a former stronghold of medieval Scotland).  

The Commando Memorial

The remains of Urquhart Castle from on Loch Ness

               
 If you have a stomach of steel, and are willing to go out on a limb, order a full Scottish breakfast before the end of your stay, complete with black pudding, tattie scones and haggis - if you dare!! 

 

London England!

                     After years of dreaming and researching, I was actually on a plane to London, England - the number one spot on my "places to visit in my lifetime" list!   Little did I know (due to my inexperience in trans-Atlantic flight), that I was going to arrive at my destination under the cover of darkness and was in for a sleepless night thanks to time zone changes!!  However, I did learn from this experience when planning future trips (always take an overnight flight to arrive in your country of choice during the morning hours according to the local time - it makes the infamous jet-lag a lot easier to overcome)!  It is also much easier to 'get your bearings' for the area during that first ride in, when your path is well lit! 

                Of course being that it was my first time "across the pond," everything was fresh, different and exciting in the most delightful way!   I remember the little flutter in my belly hearing those lovely British accents all around me, seeing cars driving on the 'opposite' side of the road, and buildings out of another era all around me!  It truly was a magical experience from the very beginning, and I couldn't wait to take everything in that London had to offer me (and attempt to pull off an accent too of course)! 

                Due to the time of night that we arrived in to Heathrow, we had pre-arranged for a private car to pick us up at the airport and drop us off at our hotel door purely for safety reasons - if arriving during daylight hours, I would recommend saving yourself the 50 or more pounds, and taking public transit - at most International airports there are airport transfer shuttles or trains for a fraction of the cost of a cab if you are adventurous and didn't pack too heavy of luggage!  For the remainder of our trip, I navigated the London Tube like a pro, and got us to all of our destinations by the underground and on foot!  The Tube is notorious for being a confusing maze of underground trains, but as I had studied the Tube maps online for months before, and had planned out routes, stops and accounted for line transfers and direction of transport,  I thought its hype of being a conundrum was over-exaggerated.   It was a cheap and convenient way to move about the city. 


Westminster Abbey



                 Being in a city with as much history as London literally blew my mind.  As someone who has always appreciated the subtleties of architecture and art, my head was constantly turning, my senses in overload attempting to take in everything around me whether we were walking down a small side street, or staring up at a famous landmark.  Of course there were many typical tourist destinations (and places of notoriety), that were on my list of non-negotiable spots to visit.   We visited Westminster Abbey, Buckingham Palace (and saw the Queen's royal procession), the Tate, the Tower of London, St.Paul's Cathedral, strolled through Hyde Park, took in the hustle and bustle of Piccadilly Circus, strolled down the high end shopping districts of Knightsbridge and Brompton Roads (not without a visit to Harrod's), ate lunch in a pub in the basement of Covent Market, and the list goes on and on.  A word for the wise:  a photograph of you in a British phone booth makes a great keepsake.  However, you'll want to take a deep breath in and plug your nose prior to getting in.  That phone booth was probably used as a 'pit stop' for lads going on a pub crawl the night before!    



Statue infront of Buckingham Palace





The Thames with the London Eye to the right

                Some may think it too much of a cliche, but I thoroughly enjoyed my trip on the London Eye.  It offered a very unique perspective over the city.  The que was long, and it was quite costly, but in my opinion, worth the wait and the price!!  It was such a unique experience to view the Parliament buildings and Big Ben, the Gherkin, the Tower of London, and all of the famous bridges of London, from high up in the sky!   There are a few other activities I highly recommend when in London.  First, if there is a play being offered, definitely take in a performance at the Globe Theatre (we were fortunate that Othello was playing during our visit)!  What a genuinely rare treat to experience one of Shakespeare's masterpieces in a replica of the theatres they would have originally be played in!  Secondly, London is famous for its theatrical pursuits, and there are often many Broadway (and off-Broadway), play bills offered.   A tip that we learned that can have your bottom in a seat enjoying world-class theatre for a fraction of the cost is this:  on the day you wish to attend the theatre, head to the main box-office in Trafalgar Square.  Ticket prices are slashed the day of a performance to help them sell un-purchased seats - we saw an amazing production of Chicago for half-price!


Cast of Othello at the Globe Theatre

               There are so many things to see and do in London that you cannot possibly see everything in a week's time.  However, you would be remiss to visit London and not take any excursions out of the city.  There are many bus companies that offer reasonable fares (do your homework to get the best deal), to nearby locations such as Windsor Castle, Oxford University, and of course, the famous and mystical and much speculated about Stonehenge.  Going to these places by bus was convenient, and economical (and less dangerous than renting a car and teaching yourself to drive all over again!). 

Stonehenge

                Last but not least, after all the walking you'll be doing, you must remember to reward yourself with an authentically British dinner of fish and chips wrapped in newspaper with a side of mushy peas!    If you're feeling decadent, a dessert of scones with clotted cream would round of the meal nicely!    

Changing of the Guard Ceremony at Windsor Castle